Saturday surf blogging…!

This weekend’s surf blogging is a short clip, but feel free to watch it over and over again, because it certainly warrants it!

Or, if you want to see a longer clip of the same ride, go watch the unembeddable version at YouTube.

The break is Teahupoo, (pronounced Cho-pu or Te-ah-hu-po), a world-renowned reef break off south-east Tahiti in the southern Pacific. And the surfer is local Manoa Drollet.

I wanted to post a clip showing a Tahitian surfer there, as the locals were riding this radical wave long before outsiders made it famous. And famous it has become!

With reason, for I have never seen such a mutant wave. It comes barreling in off deep water, wraps almost horse-shoe shape around a really shallow reef, jacks up and doubles in size, with the thickest lip I’ve ever seen in a wave, then comes thundering down.

Awe-inspiring doesn’t begin to cover it.

According to Wikipedia, bodyboarders Mike Stewart and Ben Severson surfed Teahupoo in 1986, transforming it into an underground spot for globe-trotting thrill-seeking bodyboarders. It wasn’t until around 1998, though, at the Gotcha Tahiti Pro, that Teahupoo became widely recognized as a stand-up spot. Then in August 17th, 2000, superb big-wave rider, Laird Hamilton, tow-in surfed one of the biggest waves ever ridden there. (I’ll go into the physics of tow-in surfing in a later SSB.)

That ride is shown in the following clip, which captures both the wave’s “mutancy” and power, and the undercurrent of fear and respect among surfers at the spot.

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4 Comments

Filed under 08_brynn

4 responses to “Saturday surf blogging…!

  1. As you might expect, our Hawai’i TV sports directors put surfing news on every time there’s a meet anywhere, since we always have local guys and girls competing. Thus I’ve seen pictures of this spot before; it’s amazing.

  2. Having almost drowned several times in the Pacific with waves far tamer than these, all I can really offer is — dude, that’s fucking CRAZY.

  3. Pingback: University Update - YouTube - Saturday surf blogging…!

  4. Wow. Just wow. Double wow. Hell — INFINITE WOW.

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