Saturday surf blogging…!

This weekend’s surf blogging is a short clip, but feel free to watch it over and over again, because it certainly warrants it!

Or, if you want to see a longer clip of the same ride, go watch the unembeddable version at YouTube.

The break is Teahupoo, (pronounced Cho-pu or Te-ah-hu-po), a world-renowned reef break off south-east Tahiti in the southern Pacific. And the surfer is local Manoa Drollet.

I wanted to post a clip showing a Tahitian surfer there, as the locals were riding this radical wave long before outsiders made it famous. And famous it has become!

With reason, for I have never seen such a mutant wave. It comes barreling in off deep water, wraps almost horse-shoe shape around a really shallow reef, jacks up and doubles in size, with the thickest lip I’ve ever seen in a wave, then comes thundering down.

Awe-inspiring doesn’t begin to cover it.

According to Wikipedia, bodyboarders Mike Stewart and Ben Severson surfed Teahupoo in 1986, transforming it into an underground spot for globe-trotting thrill-seeking bodyboarders. It wasn’t until around 1998, though, at the Gotcha Tahiti Pro, that Teahupoo became widely recognized as a stand-up spot. Then in August 17th, 2000, superb big-wave rider, Laird Hamilton, tow-in surfed one of the biggest waves ever ridden there. (I’ll go into the physics of tow-in surfing in a later SSB.)

That ride is shown in the following clip, which captures both the wave’s “mutancy” and power, and the undercurrent of fear and respect among surfers at the spot.



Filed under 08_brynn

4 responses to “Saturday surf blogging…!

  1. As you might expect, our Hawai’i TV sports directors put surfing news on every time there’s a meet anywhere, since we always have local guys and girls competing. Thus I’ve seen pictures of this spot before; it’s amazing.

  2. Having almost drowned several times in the Pacific with waves far tamer than these, all I can really offer is — dude, that’s fucking CRAZY.

  3. Pingback: University Update - YouTube - Saturday surf blogging…!

  4. Wow. Just wow. Double wow. Hell — INFINITE WOW.

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